Boot scootin' boogey: How to choose your first pair of mountain boots

I have been getting a lot of questions about mountain boot selection these days, so I figured I would give you all some insights on how to choose your first pair of mountain boots.  We will cover 4 different styles of boots and what the advantages and disadvantages are to each style, so here we go!

Double Plastic Boots: 

Scarpa Invernos: Retails for $329

Koflach Degres: Retails for $399

     Double  Plastic boots are an excellent choice for beginner mountaineers and ice climbers.  They are solid, warm, and dry.  They also have the advantage of being able to remove the inner liner, which is great on expeditions for drying as well as doubling as a pair of camp booties.  The disadvantage to these boots is the weight and stiffness, although a little practice with proper lacing can help out tremendously.  Another disadvantage is "toe bang" and "shin bang", both things that can also be taken care of with proper lacing.

Single Leather Boots:

Scarpa Mont Blanc: Retails for $469

Scarpa Triolet Pro: Retails for $369

     

Single leather boot are excellent performers.  They have just the right amount of flex and have a more precise fit.  These boots work well for ice climbing and mountaineering when the temps don't go to low.  They are also much lighter then double plastics.  The down side to these boots are overall warmth and their ability to dry.  If you are planning on doing day trips in non-arctic temps, these may be a good choice for you.

Integral Gaiter Boots:

Scarpa Phantom Guide: Retails for $599

La Sportiva Batura 2.0 GTX: Retails for $699

   Integral gaiter boots are a great choice for cold weather alpine climbs.  You will see me wearing my Phantom Guides all winter.  They have all the advantages of single leathers with the added benefit of having a built in gaiter and additional warmth.  If you have the funds and are a single day cold weather climber, I would go with these.  In fact, I already have.

Double Leather Boots:

Scarpa Phantom 6000: Retails for $739

La Sportiva Spantik: Retails for $749

     Double leather boots are great cold weather expedition boots.  They have the advantage of a removable inner liner and the lightness of a leather boot.  They are very warm and have the ability to dry quickly by removing the inner liner.  If you are going to climb Denali, these may be the boot for you, but if you are a warmer weather ice climber these may be "too much boot"..

     To sum it up, there are many types of boots on the market that have advantages in certain terrain.  When you go to pick out a boot, be sure to think of these places you may be going, not just your upcoming trip.  A good, warm, dry boot is one of the things that will help with overall comfort and success in the mountains.  If you are going to put money into one piece of gear, this is were you want to spend that hard earned cash.

What to do, in the Shoe

  It was a warm night when we got up to our basecamp in Twin Mountain, with a inch or so of new snow which would turn to water by morning.  We quickly headed over to our local burger joint Skeet's for a burger and a drinki-poo or 2.  It was the usual mix of locals there, which in Twin Mountain, is free entertainment.  After fueling up we headed back to our basecamp for a brew or two and some inspiration in the form of the great flick "Into the Mind".
  We sorted our gear the next morning and noticed all the snow was gone, I knew then it would be a sporty day in Shoestring.  As we headed up the gully we found full on rivers running over the ice.  We decided to mix climb around the junk to get in the gully proper.  Just as we were working our way around the first section, fellow climber Dan pulled down 2 large boulders just nearly missing us.  It got exciting fast.  We carried on consciously up the gully through loose choss and occasional bits of ice.

Kevin and Dan working what was left of the ice

     We scrapped our way up the gully to find the crux pitch to be in snorkel like shape.  With 4 climbers above us and no snow, rocks were coming down fast left and right.  We waited a few minutes to see if the rock fall would stop before we headed up the gully to the left up and out.  After a little wallowing in the terra-firma, we popped out on the descent trail.  We headed over to the lookout spot to snap a few pics.

NRMG Guide Kevin and friend Dan taking in the views.

NRMG Guide Kevin high on Mt. Webster

  The descent trail was long as usual, with a mix of ice and rock.  We had a nice chat with an older gentleman out for a Sunday hike on the way down.  We got back to the truck and were relived to take off our boots.  All in all, it was a great, sporty day out in early season ice conditions.